For guidance on how to use a Body Condition Score please see https://royalcanin.co.uk/body-condition-score/
Vaccination offers the most effective way of protecting your cat throughout their life against many of the most serious infectious and fatal diseases.
- Feline Panleucopenia (also known as Feline Distemper or Feline Infectious Enteritis)
- Cat Flu (also known as Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis)
- Feline Leukaemia (FeLV)
In the first few weeks of life, kittens are normally protected against disease by antibodies (immunity) from their mother’s milk. This decreases over time and has usually disappeared by 12 weeks of age.
Vaccination then protects your kitten against disease. They receive a course of 2 vaccinations, one at 8 weeks of age and then again at 12 weeks to ensure their immune system has the best chance of mounting a strong, protective response.
After 12 months the immunity levels drop and a regular, annual booster is required to maintain the highest possible level of protection against serious disease. This should be continued throughout your cat’s life.
Feline Panleucopenia is characterised by:
- Severe vomiting
- Death especially in kittens and unborn kittens in an infected cat’s womb
The virus is a very serious disease with a high risk of death in infected kittens and young cats. The virus is very similar to the one that causes parvovirus in dogs. All unvaccinated cats at any age are at risk.
Infected cats spread the virus in their urine and faeces. The virus is extremely hardy and persists in the environment for many months or years. Infection can occur by contact with an infected cat or environment or inside the mother’s womb by the virus passing across the placenta from the mother, if she is infected while pregnant.
Cat Flu is characterised by:
- Nasal discharge
- Discharge from the eyes
- Loss of appetite
- Fever and depression
- Mouth and eye ulcers and excessive drooling are seen
- Young kittens can have lameness and fever
Cat flu is still extremely common despite the important contribution made by vaccination. Despite it’s name the causes of cat flu are no relation to human influenza. Cat flu is caused by one or more viruses, most commonly Feline Calicivirus and Feline Herpesvirus.
Young kittens and elderly cats are at risk from developing severe pneumonia and dying from infection.
The viruses are relatively sturdy and can survive in the environment for several days. Common forms of infection are by direct contact, sneezing and inhaling infected droplets and direct contact with contaminated environment eg clothing and food bowls. Contact with a cat who is a ‘carrier’ of cat flu is also a source of infection. This is a cat which is not showing any signs of the disease but sheds the virus throughout it’s life.
Feline Leukaemia (FeLV)
Feline Leukaemia is characterised by vague and non- specific signs which can take months or years to develop:
- Off colour
- Poor appetite
- Chronic or recurring problems such as diarrhoea
- Slow to recover from minor infections
- Tumour development
Feline leukaemia virus is almost always fatal and there is no cure. The infection weakens the immune system causing destruction of white blood cells, leaving your cat open to infection. Anaemia and eventually cancer usually develop.
The virus is spread mainly via saliva for example mutual grooming or sharing food bowls. Also fighting, mating or contact with urine and faeces containing the virus will spread the disease.
All cats are considered to be at risk especially young cats and kittens.
The vast majority of cats spend some time outside and are at risk of coming into contact with infection of any one of these diseases either directly or indirectly.
If your cat is a true indoor cat ie does not even venture out into the garden please discuss vaccination with your veterinary surgeon.
At your cat’s routine booster vaccination appointment, your vet will also perform a thorough healthcheck to ensure your cat is fit and well. These healthchecks are vital to allow us to spot any problems early on and to offer help with routine healthcare issues.
Cats of all ages can and do become serious ill or die from infectious diseases that could have been prevented through vaccination. It is a common misconception that immunity from their primary kitten vaccinations lasts for life or is less important as your cat ages.
Older cats are more prone to disease and as with everything prevention is always better than cure! Their immune systems become less efficient and weakened over time. Infections are picked up more easily and as a result, senior cats may not be able to fight off disease as well as they could when they were younger.
The regular annual visits for a booster vaccination, also allows your vet to perform a full clinical examination and check up. This enables us to spot the early signs of any disease conditions which may be developing. The onset of many of these symptoms are often subtle and easy to miss. For example weight loss, increased thirst or changes in appetite and behaviour can all be closely monitored by regularly attending healthchecks for your older cat. Many diseases and conditions are much better controlled when they are diagnosed early for example renal and dental disease.
At Cinque Ports Vets we offer Senior Clubs which offers you the opportunity to regularly attend check ups with your veterinary nurse. These help you monitor your pet’s health in between their annual or six monthly checks with the vet.
What is a pyometra?
This is a potentially life threatening condition which requires immediate veterinary treatment.
Pyometra is an infection of the lining of the uterus which often occurs shortly after oestrus (heat or season). Following a normal oestrus, progesterone levels remain increased for 8-10 weeks to prepare the uterus lining for a potential pregnancy.
If pregnancy does not happen, the progesterone levels do not return to normal and the lining continues to thicken, forming cysts. These cysts produce fluid which creates the ideal environment for bacteria to develop.
The cervix, which is the entrance to the uterus, usually remains closed unless oestrus is occuring. While the cervix is open, bacteria which normally live in the vagina will enter the uterus. Normally these bacteria won’t survive, but in a thickened uterus with the ideal environment created for bacteria they will thrive. Due to the thickening of the uterus it is also unable to contract fully and expel the bacteria.
Pyometra can occur in any unneutered dog or cat. It is more commonly seen in middle aged to older dogs, although young dogs are also susceptible. It occurs rarely in cats.
Older dogs which have had many oestrus cycles without a pregnancy, have the perfect uterine wall to promote this disease. It usually occurs 4-8 weeks after oestrus.
These can vary considerably so you should always seek veterinary treatment.
- Lack of appetite
- Increased thirst
If the cervix is open allowing drainage you will see a pussy, vulval discharge which is usually foul smelling. Your dog will often be continually cleaning her back end. This is called an open pyometra.
If the cervix is closed the pus continues to build up without draining causing the dog to become seriously ill, extremely quickly.
A full clinical examination is performed by your veterinary surgeon. Pyometra is often suspected if the dog is not neutered, drinking more and has a vulval discharge, 4-8 weeks after oestrus. A blood sample may be collected and X-rays or an ultrasound scan may be performed to confirm the diagnosis.
The most recommended option for treatment is surgery to remove the infected uterus and ovaries- an ovariohysterectomy or spay. Depending on the severity of the infection, your dog may need to be stabilised first using intravenous fluids and antibiotics, prior to surgery. Although the surgery being performed is a neutering operation, the surgery is much more complicated due to the enlarged and weakened uterus. It must be removed without rupturing to prevent the pus from leaking into the abdomen. Additionally there is always an increased anaesthetic risk when the patient is unwell. This is one of the reasons why veterinary surgeons always recommend spaying your dog at an early age when they are young, fit and healthy!
Medical treatment for pyometra is possible using injections containing prostaglandins which reduce the progesterone levels. This causes the cervix to open and expel the pussy contents of the uterus. Medical treatment for pyometra can be expensive especially in large dogs. It is not always effective and surgery may still be necessary.
Medical treatment can be considered for young bitches from whom the owner would like to consider breeding from at subsequent seasons. It can also be considered for older bitches where general anaesthesia and surgery is considered inadvisable.
Your veterinary surgeon will discuss the best course of treatment for your pet. If you do not seek any treatment for your pet suffering from a pyometra the outcome will potentially be fatal.
Before attempting to breed from your pet, there are a number of points which we recommend you consider.
- Can you afford the extra costs involved in maintaining a healthy pregnancy?
- Should complications arise during delivery, could you afford an emergency caesarean section? Do you have the knowledge or experience required to recognise when complications are occurring?
- Can you afford the initial vaccinations, flea and worm treatments that the new arrivals will require?
- Do you have responsible owners who will purchase or rehome the kittens?
- Are you aware that after the costs involved with responsible breeding, there is very little profit to be made with the sale of kittens?
- Is your queen in good health? Does she have any congenital defects? eg. a heart condition
- Is your queen fully vaccinated and up to date with worm and flea treatments?
- Can you afford the conditions that may arise from an entire queen? For example a pyometra (infection of the uterus) is potentially fatal if not treated. If presented with a pyometra your pet will generally require an emergency hysterectomy.
If you feel that the answer is ‘no’ to any of these questions then please reconsider breeding from your pet.
Female cats are ‘polyestrous’ which means that they will come into season periodically throughout the year until they are mated or neutered. Queens in season will be very vocal and they are likely to appear very friendly, overly rubbing around objects and rolling on the floor. As cats are generally allowed to roam freely a queen will very easily attract a ‘tom cat’ and will quickly become pregnant if not kept indoors away from unneutered male cats.
Feline pregnancy can last for approximately 64 to 65 days but timings may be varied as much as 56 to 72 days depending at what stage of your queen’s cycle she was mated.
Signs to look for are:
- Weight gain
- Lack of appetite and vulval discharge (common in the first month)
- Enlargement and reddening of the mammary glands (usually from around day 40)
- On some occasions there is milk production (from day 40)
Care of the queen during pregnancy
The queen’s food intake will need to be increased from around day 30, not before as this will only cause unnecessary weight gain. She will need to be fed little and often due to the reduction in the queen’s stomach capacity by the pressure of her uterus. A good quality kitten diet will provide the extra calories she requires. At Cinque Ports Vets we recommend feeding the Royal Canin Nutrition range.
You do not need to supplement Vitamin D or Calcium as long as you provide a good quality diet.
Roundworms are transmitted from the mother to her kittens via her milk, therefore it is important to worm your cat to prevent infection of the kittens. The kittens should be wormed from 2 weeks of age and it is important to make sure the mother is wormed at the same time as the kittens until they are weaned.
Prepare a quiet, warm, clean and dry area for the queen to give birth
Signs of impending labour
- The rectal temperature of the queen will drop from around 39°C to 37°C. It is good practice to keep a record of her temperature daily in the last week of pregnancy.
- The queen will show signs of restlessness and nest making
- There will be an increase in the discharge from her vulva
- She will have a lack of appetite and may vomit, pant and shiver
- As contractions begin fluid will leak from the vulva (waters breaking)
It can be as little as 10 to 30 minutes from the onset of contractions to birth. Once a kitten has been born the queen will begin to lick and remove the membrane surrounding it. Sometimes with first time mums encouragement may be required. Using a soft clean towel to rub the kittens often helps. The queen should also sever the umbilical cord. If this does not occur you will need to cut it with a clean pair of scissors around an inch from the kittens’ abdomen. Neonates cannot regulate their own temperature so you will need to ensure that mum and kittens are in a warm environment at all times.
After all the kittens are delivered it is normal for a greenish discharge to be present. This should decline after a week.
If you see any of the following things or you are at all concerned you should contact your local branch of Cinque Ports Vets.
- If the queen’s rectal temperature has declined over 48 hours but with no signs of labour
- If the pregnancy is lasting longer than 68 days from mating
- If the queen is straining infrequently and then ceases
- If there has been more than 45 minutes of contractions but no foetus has been delivered
- If there is over a 2 hour interval between the delivery of foetuses
- If a foetus presents with its rear from the vulva but with no hind limbs showing
- If there is a black/green discharge before labour begins
Care of the queen and her kittens
After giving birth the queen can be offered a light meal, though she may have eaten the placentas and may have slight gastric discomfort. She will spend the next 2 weeks caring for her kittens constantly. From 3 weeks onwards the kittens will start to wander around and leave their mum for short periods of time to investigate and explore their surroundings.
Click on the video below to find out more about feeding your kitten.
Antifreeze (Ethylene Glycol)
During the winter months antifreeze is often used during the cold weather along with screen washes and de-icers. These products contain ethylene glycol or methanol which are poisonous but unfortunately appear quite palatable to our pets.
Pet owners and people who use these products should ensure that they are stored well out of the reach of pets and in secure sealed containers. Numerous poisoning cases especially in cats occur because antifreeze has been left outside for cats to drink in people’s gardens.
Signs of poisoning include:
- Loss of balance/unable to walk properly
- Breathing difficulties
- Convulsions/severe twitching
- Kidney damage
You should seek immediate veterinary treatment if you suspect your cat has been exposed to ethylene glycol. Symptoms can start within 30 minutes of ingesting ethylene glycol but it can take a couple of days before kidney failure is seen. Unfortunately treatment is not always successful and euthanasia can be the kindest option.
Chocolate is one of the most common causes of poisoning in dogs. Generally the higher the percentage of cocoa or the darker the chocolate is the more poisonous it is to dogs. Chocolate contains a stimulant called theobromine and in large quantities this can cause problems with their heart and central nervous system. Dogs should never be given chocolate as a treat and all chocolate should be kept well out of the way from inquisitive dogs.
Signs of poisoning include:
- An increase in thirst
- Vomiting and diarrhoea
- High temperature and blood pressure
- Abnormal heart rhythm and tremors
- Coma and death
If you suspect that your dog has eaten chocolate and you are concerned please contact your vet immediately. Make sure you have the details of the chocolate consumed to hand as this will help your vet calculate whether the amount that has been consumed is toxic or not.
Grapes and Raisins
It is not very well known among pet owners that these fruits can be poisonous and many people do give them routinely as treats. It is not known why grapes and raisins can be poisonous to some dogs but it has been found that in certain quantities dogs developed acute kidney failure.
Signs of poisoning include:
- Vomiting and diarrhoea
- Abdominal pain
- Anorexia (not eating)
- Acute renal failure
You should seek immediate veterinary advice if you suspect your dog has ingested a quantity of grapes or raisins and you are concerned.
Human Pain Relief Medications
Pet owners often give human painkilling medication to their pets in an attempt to relieve pain without seeking advice from a veterinary surgeon. Human preparations should not be given to animals as this is highly dangerous, especially for cats as just one paracetamol tablet is enough to cause severe illness or death. On occasion dogs have been poisoned by ingesting Ibuprofen and other pain relief tablets that have been left within their reach.
Signs of poisoning include:
- Bleeding from the gut
- Severe stomach ulceration
- Kidney and liver failure
You should seek immediate veterinary treatment if you have administered or your pet has ingested any human medical preparations.
Although lilies are very pretty flowers to look at and have in our gardens and homes, they are extremely toxic to our pets, especially cats. This can include the Easter, Stargazer, Tiger and Asiatic lilies. Kittens can be prone to being poisoned by them due to their naturally inquisitive behaviour and habit of eating things. Older cats are at just as much risk from lilly poisoning when they brush against the flowers causing pollen to rub off on their coats. This is then ingested when they groom themselves. As little as one leaf can cause kidney failure in a cat.
Signs of poisoning include:
- Anorexia (not eating)
- Respiratory problems
- Kidney damage
You should seek immediate veterinary treatment if you suspect your cat has ingested any part of a lilly. Check the labels on the flowers for warnings of toxicity to animals.
Onions and Garlic
These ingredients regularly feature in our own food but can be toxic to dogs and cats. They contain a chemical compounds which provide the odour and taste we associate with these foods. If your pet absorbs these chemicals it can cause damage to their red blood cells resulting in a life threatening condition called haemolytic anaemia. Any type of onion or garlic product can cause a problem for pets, cooked or not. Poisoning usually occurs after a large quantity is ingested or if repeatedly eaten at regular intervals. Symptoms can be seen within 24 hours but it is more common to occur over a few days.
Signs of poisoning include:
- Anorexia (not eating)
- Abdominal pain
You should seek immediate veterinary treatment if you suspect your dog has ingested onions or garlic and you are concerned.
This is a relatively common type of poisoning. Typical ingredients include warfarin and bromadiolone. These anticoagulant rodenticides do not produce signs of poisoning for several days after it has been ingested and they cause internal bleeding which can be fatal. The rat bait interferes with the body’s ability to produce clotting factors.
Signs of poisoning include:
- Pale gums and lips
- Nose bleeds
- Bloody urine and faeces
- Bruising on their body
You should seek immediate veterinary treatment if you suspect your pet has ingested rat bait. Remember to ensure you take the container or details of the ingredients in the bait as this is vital information for your veterinary surgeon.
Slug/Snail Bait (Metaldehyde)
Metaldehyde, the common ingredient in some slug baits is an extremely serious type of poisoning and is usually fatal without urgent emergency treatment. Pets are attracted to the bait due to the resemblance to kibble.
Signs of poisoning include:
- Loss of balance
- Fast heart rate
- Respiratory failure
You should seek immediate veterinary treatment if you suspect your pet has ingested slug bait. Remember to ensure you take the container or details of the ingredients in the bait as this is vital information for your veterinary surgeon. You should never use slug bait containing Metaldehyde if you have pets.
People tend to think it’s only older pets that get ill and therefore younger pets don’t need pet insurance but we know from the patients we see each day that that is not the case.
In fact, the younger your pet is when you insure them the better as it means you are less likely to have any existing conditions, which may not be covered by the policy and you can then receive more help covering the cost of any future treatment your pet needs.
It is important to note that not all pet insurance is the same. There are many different types of policy available and the level of cover provided can vary considerably. The four main types of policy are as follows:
Accident: provides cover for accidents only and no cover for illness
Time-Limited: provides cover for a set amount of time (usually 12 months) and after this period
the condition is excluded
Maximum Benefit: provides cover up to a maximum amount of money per condition and once
this limit is reached the condition is excluded
Lifetime: provides a set amount of money each year which is refreshed each time you renew
your policy allowing you to continue to claim for ongoing conditions
As you can see from the information above, the type of policy you choose can have implications for the veterinary care of your pet and the costs you will face so it’s important to choose the right cover.
Sometimes, the cheapest insurance can cost you more in the long run. When shopping around for a policy, we suggest that you ask the following questions to allow you to compare the overall value you are getting, not just the price:
1. Does this policy cover congenital, hereditary, hip-related, dental and behavioral conditions?
2. Is there a time or monetary limit on how long this policy will cover ongoing conditions for?
3. If I claim, will my premium increase?
Unlike other forms of insurance it is not easy to switch pet insurance in the future as any pre-existing conditions your pet has are likely to be excluded so it’s important to do your research and choose the right cover from the start.
What are worms?
The two types of worms that commonly affect your dog and cat are roundworms (Toxocara) and tapeworms. The most common type of tapeworm is Dipylidium caninum. However there are other types of worms called lungworms, hookworms and whipworms that can also infect our pets and so treatment and prevention of these is also important.
As their name implies, these are worms which have round bodies. They are the most common intestinal worm in dogs and cats and they are present in most puppies and kittens. The worms consume partially digested food in the intestines of our pets and produce microscopic eggs which are then passed in our pet’s faeces. Puppies and kittens with roundworms may expel whole worms as well as eggs into their faeces when young.
How does my pet get roundworms?
Infected animals pass roundworms eggs into the environment from their faeces. Even after the faeces has disappeared the eggs can survive in the environment for up to 3 years. Dogs and cats snuffling in the grass will swallow these eggs and become infected. They will also become infected from eating infected rodents. Once the eggs have been ingested they develop into adult worms inside your pet which then shed more eggs into the environment and the cycle continues. Puppies and kittens may already be infected before birth from their mother or via their mother’s milk during nursing.
What problems do roundworms cause?
Large numbers can cause weight loss and a pot-bellied appearance to puppies and kittens and weakness or general ill health in adults. Decreased appetite, vomiting and diarrhoea may be seen. If there are too many worms in the bowel of a puppy or kitten, they can cause a blockage and consequently death. Roundworms are harmful to people and children are at particular risk if infected. A variety of organs may be affected but the main danger is if the larvae migrate to the eye where they can cause blindness.
How do you treat and prevent roundworms?
Regular worming stops your pet from shedding eggs into the environment, helping to reduce the risks of other people and pets becoming infected. It is very important to implement a strict worming program for your pet even if there are no signs of infestation. We advise worming every two weeks until they are twelve weeks of age and then once every three months on a regular basis for life with a multiwormer. The wormers we use at the veterinary surgery are broad spectrum and will generally treat all types of worms. Often supermarket or pet shop wormers will only cover one or two types of worms and therefore if your pet is infected with a different type of worm then the treatment will not be effective.
Other ways you can protect your pets are:
Making sure as a responsible pet owner that you clear up your pet’s faeces and discourage dogs from toileting in areas normally used by children. The eggs are often highly resistant to most common disinfectants and to harsh environmental conditions so removal of faeces is the most effective means of preventing reinfection.
Good hygiene routines are very important for example washing your pet’s bedding and feeding bowls regularly. It is also important to wash our hands and educate children to wash theirs after playing with animals and not to let dogs lick faces.
Pregnant dogs should be wormed in late pregnancy. This will help to reduce potential contamination of the environment for the puppies. All new puppies should be treated by 2 –3 weeks of age and then as mentioned previously.
These worms live in the small intestine of our pets attaching themselves to the wall by hook-like mouthparts. They can reach up to 20cm in length and are made up of many small segments carrying eggs. As the worm matures these break off and pass into your pet’s faeces. Sometimes these rice-like segments can be seen crawling near your pet’s anus or on the surface of their faeces.
How does my pet get tapeworms?
Infected animals pass tapeworm eggs into the environment from their faeces, where they survive for up to a year. Tapeworm eggs can also be eaten by fleas where the eggs continue development. The fleas are then ingested when your pet grooms themselves and the flea is swallowed. As the flea is digested in their intestines, the tapeworm hatches and anchors itself to their intestinal lining. Tapeworm eggs can also be swallowed by sheep, cattle or rabbits as they graze and if pets are allowed to feed on their carcasses they may become infected.
What problems do tapeworms cause?
Segments from the worm can cause irritation around your pet’s anal area and this can lead to ‘scooting’ along the ground. In large numbers they may cause debilitation and general ill health. Occasionally if a tapeworm loses its attachment in their intestines it may move into your pet’s stomach and can then be vomited up. Tapeworms are infectious to people although it is quite rare. A flea must be ingested for humans to become infected with the most common type of tapeworm. Therefore flea control is the best way to prevent human infection. One less common group of tapeworms called Echinococcus (hydatids) is a particular threat to human health and can cause serious disease when humans are infected. Sheep and humans are the final host. This disease only occurs in particular areas of the UK, mainly large rural farming areas such as Wales.
How do you treat and prevent tapeworm?
Treatment is often the same preparation that is also effective against roundworms. Hygiene and other precautions as explained before with roundworms are also required. In particular effective control of fleas is important in the management and prevention of tapeworms. Flea control involves treatment of your pets, the indoor environment and any outdoor environment where your pets may reside. If your pet lives in a flea-infested environment, reinfection may occur in as little as two weeks. As veterinary supplied medication is very effective, return of the tapeworms is almost always due to reinfection of the environment not failure of the product.
Please click on the video below to watch a video on ‘How Profender Works.’
Once you have made an appointment for your pet to be castrated, please offer a small meal at 10pm the night before the anaesthetic and then withhold any further food. Access to water should be allowed until they are ready to come into the surgery.
Once admitted they will be examined by your vet and given a health check. If your pet is fit and healthy a premedication injection will be given. This helps calm the body and prepare him for the general anaesthetic. The premedication can take 20 – 45 minutes to take effect and they will be slightly sleepy and relaxed.
Once your pet is ready, he will then be taken through to the Prep room. A small area of hair is clipped from his leg, an intravenous catheter is placed and a general anaesthetic is injected into the vein.
An endotracheal tube is then placed into his trachea to maintain a clear airway for us to administer an oxygen/gaseous anaesthetic mix to keep him under anaesthetic.
Once asleep under anaesthetic he will be prepared for theatre. His veterinary nurse monitors the anaesthetic while shaving an area of hair from his testicles. Once the hair has been shaved the area is then cleaned using an antiseptic soap. When all the dirt and hair has been removed a surgical spirit/antiseptic preparation is then applied to the operation site. This procedure is carried out to reduce any bacteria on the skin and provide a sterile operation site. All the hair will grow back in time. They are then transferred to theatre.
The nurse will carefully monitor the anaesthetic during the surgery. Your vet will perform the castration by firstly making an incision in front of the scrotum. Each testicle is then clamped, tied off with suture material and then removed. The skin is then sutured with dissolvable stitches. This is a permanent and irreversible procedure. Once your vet has completed the surgery the gaseous anaesthetic is switched off and your pet will be maintained on pure oxygen for a short period of time.
Once the veterinary nurse is happy, we will then disconnect the anaesthetic circuit and transport your pet to the Hospital Ward where the endotracheal tube is removed when ready. He is placed into a warm kennel and his recovery carefully monitored by the Hospital nurse (a qualified veterinary nurse). Once he is sitting up and alert, his intravenous catheter is removed and the Hospital nurse will contact you to update you on their progress and arrange a collection time. On discharge a veterinary nurse will explain all necessary post- operative care.
We will only discharge a patient when we feel they are fully awake and able to walk. Some pets take longer to fully recover than others and are treated on a case by case situation, so don’t panic if a late time is requested for collection.
The benefits of having your pet castrated:
- May improve unwanted behaviour (if castrated early)
- Decreases risk of prostatic disease
- Testicular tumours are prevented
- Reduced incidence of perianal tumours
- Reduced incidence of perianal hernia
- Stops dogs from running away after bitches in season